In the mid-seventeenth century, Europe saw a boom in
popularity of mica overlays for miniature portraits. The items functioned in
similar fashion to paper dolls. A base image, often painted in oil and usually
fixed in some sort of metal support, was furnished with a set of outfits
painted on transparent surfaces. These were referred to as “talcs” because they
were formed out of sheer sheets of the eponymous mineral or its kin, mica. The
overlays primarily provided entertainment, but they could also subtly celebrate
rulers, offer religious influence, and perpetuate new fashions.
This set of overlays comes packaged in a false coin, in this
case a 1628 thaler from Saxony. Throughout the Holy Roman Empire, the thaler
was the standard against which various states’ currencies were valued. They
held to the same general layout across state lines: both sides bear text about
their edges, embracing distinctive state imagery. Here, one side states “SA.
ROM. PARCHIM. ET . ELECT. 16. 78” around the heraldic shield of the Electorate
of Saxony under the Holy Roman Empire. The heraldry belongs in particular to
John George I (or Johann Georg I), the Elector of Saxony from 1611-1656. John
George I himself appears on the opposite side of the coin, distinguishable by
his cropped hair and goatee, surrounded by “IOHAN. GEORG. D. G. DUX SAX. IUL
CLIV. ET MONT.”
Both interiors are painted. On one side are two figures, a
woman in a blue dress and broad-brimmed hat and a man in an orange tunic. On
the other side is the base figure, a woman in a dress of mid-century style,
with a tight bodice, wide hips and sleeves, and an off-the-shoulder collar. The
woman may be dressed in one of seven outfits, in both men’s and women’s guises.
One overlay places the woman in the styling of the Holy Roman Emperor, with
laurel wreath, scepter, and fur cape. It is possible that this overlay
specifically represents the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand III, who reigned from
1637 to 1657, but the defining facial hair was also characteristic of his
successors Ferdinand IV and Leopold I. Another overlay depicts the garb of a
Lutheran cleric, complete with a white amice, likely a point of national pride
since the Protestant Reformation began within the borders of Saxony at
Wittenberg. Other overlays dress the woman in a luxurious fur cape, a hood
and apron, and the dress of a gardener, with thick gloves and flowers.
The androgynous wardrobe reflects the rising vogue of the same practice in
courtly circles. Court masques were beginning to feature women performing male
characters (the “travesty role”), and fashionable women’s riding garb featured
masculine cuts. The overlays stretch this androgyny to include monarchs and
religious leadership, an amusing, but potentially subversive, move. There is
plenty to explore in these overlays, and they are perhaps more politically dense than their physical fragility suggests.
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